Home for the summertime!

I arrived in Chicago Wednesday evening after a long day of traveling from Taipei. My seat on the airplane was the middle seat of the middle row. Not a comfortable situation but luckily I slept most of the flight.

I arrived the same night my brother Patrick's divorce was finalized, and the same night my other brother Rob received or rather created a job offer (such a smart man!) after months of disappointing job hunting. There was much to toast, so we cracked some champagne and had fun catching up on the back porch of my parents' home in Oak Park. My favorite pastime is sitting on that porch at sunset in summer and watching as the amber rays light the trees that frame the sky. If you ignore the phone wires, alley, shadows, mismatched fences and garages, and look up to the treetops and sky, I'm sure it must be similar to a Laura Ingalls Wilder view... Wednesday night was particularly special because the power in the neighborhood was out, and had been for days as a result of storms which downed power lines all over Chicago. The house was really a house on the prairie. No internet, light, fridge, blow-dryer... We sat on the porch until it grew darker than normal, and cracked a bottle of white wine and lit candles as the fireflies came out. It was surreal for me, being there with my brothers, jetlagged, culture-shocked and thrilled to be sitting among them. Afterward we strolled to downtown Oak Park to my favorite Indian restaurant, as there was no food in the house due to the power outage.

I've spent the last two days with the brothers. Yesterday the power came back on, and we had two grilling sessions. Pat and I made a Greek salad then grilled some spicy Italian sausage for lunch. We relaxed, went for a run at the OPRF track... my favorite. All day I was just happy to be home and see Americans; didn't realize how much I missed home and the people. In the evening, Pat and Rob blackened some spicy catfish on the grill with veggies and made Jalapeno cornbread. Delicious!

Last night I couldn't sleep. The jetlag has been tough. Today blew by in a tired daze. My brothers took me shopping since I still have the same wardrobe I left with 2 years ago to Taiwan; my once black shirts are gray and I look or feel like a hobo, particularly here in Chicago. In Taipei I'm used to being different, regardless of my clothes, I'm different. Here I'm only different because I'm wearing crappy old clothes. Shopping was worthwhile, but damn, I can't stand it! And I couldn't handle the women and spoiled children in the dressing room at Macy's. One kid wanted to be paid to go and get her mother different sizes of clothing.

We had a productive day though, and I got a run in at the track again this evening. Tomorrow I get up at 3:30am for a flight to Boston and a bus to Maine, so tonight I'm heading to bed early and packing. Seems too soon to be jumping back on a plane, but I can't wait to see my parents and extended family in Maine.

I'll be in Maine for at least 3 weeks. First "downeast" in Prospect Harbor in my great grandmother's, now my grandmother's house; then south east to MacMahan Island. I'm most excited for MacMahan. It will be great to be with family and visit the places that have been a part of my life since birth. In a way going to Maine feels like the real homecoming after living so far and in such a foreign culture these past two years.

I'm blessed to have the time I have this summer and plan to make the most of it. During my trip to Maine, I plan to cook with my Mom every night and take notes on the recipes she's been perfecting forever. The pies, the breads, the cakes, the French dishes, and the Maine seafood.... If I can, I'll blog about the dinners we make, share pictures as well as some of the recipes and her secret techniques. I think in sharing I'll learn more, appreciate my Mom, and internalize the dishes she's labored over lovingly for my family every night for all my life as far as I can remember. I can't wait to see her, my Dad, my dog Phoebe, Maine, cook, bake, swim, row, fish and eat! It's bound to be a fabulous summer.

A Guest!!

My brother Patrick's coming to visit! He arrives on Saturday, I can't wait! This semester has been intense since I decided to take an intensive Mandarin course in addition to my masters program. I've been studying Chinese 3 hours a day, then most evenings I go to class for 3 hours of my masters' courses. I also have weekend classes, some weeks I have school 6 or 7 days a week. It's a fulltime job. And I realize I've forgotten this beautiful city! I'm either studying, or feeling like I should be studying, so it's a rare occasion that I go for a joy walk or try something new. I'm so excited for Pat to come, not only to see him, but with him here I'll get to see and explore Taiwan with newcomer-eyes. And just to have family here! I missed family... It'll be great!

I can't wait to see Patrick's reaction to things. He's my older bro by 22 months. He's been in China for the last three weeks, so I think he'll be broken in a bit before he arrives. Taiwan is heaven after China! All of a sudden, there's Dunkin Donuts, and other establishments you wouldn't dream of visiting in your home country, but recognizing the food (a donut!) or being able to read a menu is such an achievement, you just feel so happy and relieved to see something familiar.

I've become used to Taipei. Most of the time I don't feel like a foreigner; I don't hear the garbage truck playing fur elise every night even though it's there. (When you hear that song, most people have to run outside to deliver their trash to the truck. The truck doesn't pick it up like back home). I've been lucky... I only had to do this when I lived in the dorms for 3-months. There was no kitchen, so if I neglected to deliver my garbage, it wasn't stinky. I've heard from many foreigners that they put stinking waste, such as compost, in the freezer since no one can be around to meet the fur elise truck. Beethoven should be so happy his song is the garbage jingle in Taipei!

I've also forgotten the 7/11 clerks that all shout every time you enter a store... (they're saying welcome in Chinese, but it just sounds like "Morning, morning!" in a nasal voice when you don't understand the language. You feel entirely awkward because you don't know what to do in response. There's also the tea-boiled eggs and stinky tofu... smells (stenches) that are unavoidable when you first arrive, and somehow become normal, and even find I eat these stinky things from time to time.

All these precious experiences Pat will now experience for the first time, and I'll get to remember what that felt like. Must be a lot like being a parent. Haha!

I've been so excited about this visit! I still unfortunately will have class, but I remember when I visited Tina and Mark in China, Mark went to work every morning, and Tina went to class for a few hours. It was nice to have a few hours in the morning to wake up, figure out where you are, overcome the culture shock, drink coffee and catch up on email... I feel I am passing the torch and I'm sure Pat will equally enjoy the solo morningas much as I did.

Here's our itinerary for the weekend: he arrives at 1pm on Saturday. I will meet him at the airport and bring him home to settle in for a few hours before we head to Shida, a college neighborhood 15 mins away. We'll have dinner with one of my best friends, Vanessa. Then explore the night market for about 10 mins. I can't bear the crowded-ness of the night markets and I know Pat will feel similarly. Then it's back to my neighborhood, the zhongxiao fuxing area where we'll meet my MBA classmates at 1am at a nearby bar. It's a Barcelona final soccer match; one of our classmates is from there so it's a big event. On Sunday, I'm planning a picnic up north at the beach (Baishawan); hopefully the weather will cooperate. Then in the evening, we'll go to qi-gong and Buddhism classes which involve drinking tea, talking with people from Honduras, India, South Africa, Russia, France, Japan, you name where... there's probably people from at least 30 countries in the room. Then we do qi-gong which is a yoga-esque exercise -- it involves a lot of focus on breathing. And finally, at the end of the evening, a person who's said to have achieved enlightenment will come and answer any questions we ask. It's a bit like having an live eight ball in the room. He usually has great insight and also delivers smack-downs when needed, which I think is hilarious. In being an expat, I know sometimes foreigners in a foreign land get so far from their element, they wear clothes they would never wear back home, wander around soul-searching when they're past forty... this man helps to bring back a little reality. Someone will ask a question, and before he answers, the teacher will look long and hard and proceed to ask, "how long have you been wearing that pair of jeans?" The asker will get an ear full on how the first thing it is they need to do is go out and get a new pair a jeans, find a girlfriend, and stop thinking so much... then they will get their answer on how to live in the moment. He's a teach by example guru with an edge. I love it.

That's all for now. I will try to post back, and let you know when the boy arrives. Good night or good morning, wherever you are!

Such a big week for the US. I heard the news of Bin Laden's death after reading a facebook post by one of my classmates, a friend from Holland. My first impulse was to call my Dad, which I did. Then I got sucked into the news. Strange to watch everything unfold being outside the US. Right now I have no classmates from home. My closest friend is from Honduras, then I have friends and classmates from all over the place: Japan, Germany, the Philippines, Ecuador, Spain, Korea, Panama, of course Taiwan, and many more countries.

I think I went through all of the cycles I bet most American's did. A weird excitement, feeling proud of Obama, relief Osama is finally gone - some validation of our struggles. And disbelief we have such a large special forces team trained to carry out missions like this.

After an hour or so, I started to feel how savage the attack was. Osama was not a law abiding person to say the least, but was it right for us to act similarly? It's reasonable to extinguish something that has caused and continuing to cause so much damage. I feel toward the US much like i feel toward my family. I can judge and criticize, but when others place judgment, I'm a little defensive. People around me have been sensitive. There also hasn't been a person that's come to me to try to celebrate or express relief at what the US achieved in killing Bin Laden. Why would they? I'm not worried to much about that, since I think any other country in the same shoes would have behaved similarly. But how come we can't take total pride in this? It because it wasn't handled in a way that used to be viewed as American.

Into to the Wild

Watched this movie tonight... I wanted to recommend it in my status on Facebook, but felt it inappropriate since I think most people would find the film disturbing or weird. It's about a kid, Chris, who graduates from college in the US, perfect GPA, promising career opportunities, but he's upset with society and his options ahead. He gives all his money to charity, burns his IDs, and takes off to Alaska to live off the earth.

The film is tragic, mostly because Chris doesn't communicate with his family. His parents' marriage is transformed by his disappearance. His sister narrates the film, which might be why it spoke to me so deeply. As a sister, if either of my brothers disappeared I think life would stop for me.

Chris' mission in going to Alaska and getting rid of his identity and money is to experience truth. He felt everything he had done with his life prior to going to Alaska was about conforming, his ego, and catering to other peoples' or societies' expectations.

I recommend the film, and relate to it in so many ways. I feel instead of running off to the wild, to nature, you should probably run to inner cities, to people. Couldn't one diminish the ego, experience truth or transcendence, in helping others or the planet? If you're serious about life, and about not making it money oriented or growing your ego with job titles, why not make it about others? I so understand loving nature, wanting to feel surrounded by it, the beauty, simplicity. Can the same "transcendence" one feels out in the wild be experienced through helping others? And if it can't, is your ego the one that's driving you to isolate yourself in nature or traveling?

I get a lot of enjoyment from people, especially family, and have high hopes for society. I didn't post this movie on my Facebook since I felt most people would be freaked out by it, the weirdness of dropping out of society, abandoning family, to experience personal realness or truth. I guess I'm freaked about by what Chris did too. But you should watch the movie!

Hello from India!

I've been neglecting the blog so horribly! I think of writing everyday... But find myself too beat at the end of the day. The trip so far has been unreal and I'm glad I didn't go it alone. I don't think I would've survived without Pat along. We're both enjoying it so much and I'm already dreading the end of the trip even though it's about five weeks away.

View Larger Map


Above is a rough plot of our journey so far: Delhi, Agra, which is famous for the Taj, then over to the state of Rajasthan where we have visited Jaipur, the pink city, Johdpur, the blue city, and are now in Udaipur.

Our arrival in Delhi was a shock to both of us. We left Chicago at around 2pm on January 12 and touched down in Delhi at around 5pm on the 13th. Sure enough, a guy from the Hotel Hari Piorko was waiting at the airport with a sign that read, "Ms. Emily." We took the long drive from the airport in Delhi rush-hour traffic to the Paharganj area, the backpacker's haven of the city. It was especially foggy and cold the night we arrived, so everyone everywhere was lighting fires, from shop-doorsteps to the middle of the street. The mixture of fog and smoke made the air so thick and sooty, I wanted to open a window and let the air in even when outside.

We decided almost the moment we arrived Delhi that we would leave as soon as possible. It turned out the gentleman from our hotel who so kindly met us at the airport was from our hotel's tourist office. The guy wouldn't let up! He had all these expensive safaris and hotel stays in other cities he wanted to sell us, and his desk was stationed directly in the entrance way of the hotel, there was no escaping his sales pitches. Outside the hotel we also faced endless haggling from shop owners and rickshaw drivers. We had to get out! We booked our train tickets to Agra for 5pm Friday, the following day. But by the middle of the day Friday, Delhi was beginning to grow on us. We found a nice rooftop to hideout in. While we were eating lunch, a hawk began making her nest right next to Patrick at our table. Sitting at the restaurant and looking at the dusty mayhem below in the street, with birds, cows, people, all living and working in tightly-knit quarters, there seemed to be something harmonious and homey in the insanity; everyone trying to survive and relying on each other, coming together, rather than spreading out and going it alone. I would definitely give Delhi another chance.

More later... it's now time to head to the rooftop and watch the sunset over Udaipur with my brother and a Kingfisher and papad (pappadum), our new form of happy hour in India.

Countdown to India

Wow! I can't believe my trip home to Chicago is almost over. It was way, way too short. I feel like I just got here. Christmas with my family was so nice... We don't bother with presents. Just hang around, cook together, play games, sit by the fire, drink beer and wine. It's like thanksgiving but better since we're even more thankful not to have Christmas shopping.

After Christmas, my parents, two brothers and I took off to Akumal, Mexico for a week. We stayed at the Gran Bahia Principe Coba. I've been to Mexico 4 times and I have to say this time around was the best. The resort was pure luxury... an all-inclusive with beautiful grounds, beaches, delicious food and drinks. I told my friends I think the Mexico trip has de-prepared me for India. Going from luxury to poverty like I've never experienced will most certainly be a shock.

Beyond that, even though I've done a ton of reading, I feel ill prepared. My brother Pat, who's going with me, is sick right now with a fever and what seems to be Delhi belly even though we haven't reached India yet. I guess Akumal belly better describes it since my father is sick too. It's a concern to say the least. I hope my brother recovers before the flight. I hope I don't get sick as well.

Our travel plan is to land in Delhi and after exploring the city and going to Agra, travel by train counter-clockwise around India with most of our time spent in Kerala, Ponducherry, Hyderabad, etc. We've done a lot of research but our plans are vague as far as hotel bookings and train/travel logistics. Pat an I differ on a number of things too. He's prepared with all his vaccinations: hepatitis, yellow fever, malaria pills... he's covered it all. I'm careful and have most of my inoculations, but after living in Asia for a year and a half, I don't feel worried and I've opted against taking malaria pills.

I did try to book a hotel in Delhi for our arrival. I've read arriving can be a nightmare for first-timers. All sorts of scams await you at the gate from cab drivers ripping you off, to being dropped off at the wrong locations with aggressive hoteliers overcharging you for seedy rooms. I picked the Hotel Hari Piorko as our destination for the first night. In order to make a reservation, I dialed the hotel's number: 91-11-23587999. Of course I neglected to enter the country code, so a 911 operator promptly answered, "911 what's your emergency!?!" I freaked out and speechlessly hung up. Of course, I received a call back and tried to explain I was trying to dial India, but within seconds the cops were at my house. I have to admit, although annoying, it's nice to know how immediately 911 responds.

After convincing the officer I wasn't in trouble, I re-dialed the hotel, this time the correct number with the country code, and reached Yuvi. He seemed like a great guy but totally blase about my reservation request. I want to have a room with 2 beds since I'm sharing with my brother, and most importantly, airport pickup as I want to avoid the taxi cab nightmare when we arrive thoroughly jet-lagged and scam susceptible. Yuvi just said, "yes yes yes" to everything I requested, but when I asked for a confirmation number he said, "no confirmation number miss." I'm trusting someone will show up at the airport to meet us even though I don't know how to locate that person or how the hell to get to the hotel. I'm choosing to be on Yuvi's wavelength: relax, and go with the flow, not worry... just say, "yes!" If he screws me over, he can read my vicious remarks on every travel forum. On the other hand, if he shows up, I'll do my best to take the time to praise him and the hotel. We'll see... So far I'm 60% optimistic.

So the countdown to India is on! Pat and I leave Wednesday and arrive Delhi Thursday. I'm so excited and even though things are uncertain, it's going to be a blast. I will do my best to post regular updates. Happy New Year!!